Heat Pump Repair in Fort Worth, TX

You change the thermostat from “Cool” to “Heat” (or vice versa) and the system stays in the current mode. The reversing valve is stuck. This is a serious problem because you’re locked out of one mode. The solenoid on the valve has failed or the valve is stuck due to refrigerant contamination. We’ll test the solenoid and valve operation and determine if it can be cleaned or needs replacement.

One mode runs fine, the other is weak or absent. This signals a reversing valve that’s partially stuck, a low-charge condition that’s more severe in one direction, or a problem with the backup electric heat. We test both modes under full load and identify which component is failing. Sometimes it’s the reversing valve; sometimes it’s the compressor struggling in heating mode.

In winter, you notice ice thick on the outdoor coil and the system is barely producing heat. The defrost cycle should automatically reverse the system to melt the ice every 15–30 minutes. If it’s not working, the outdoor coil stays frozen and heat output drops to zero. We test the defrost thermostat (which triggers the cycle based on temperature) and the solenoid valve that enables the cycle. A faulty defrost control is common and fixable.

The compressor starts, runs for 10–30 seconds, then stops for several minutes. This is damaging: each startup stresses the motor. In a heat pump, short cycling can be caused by low refrigerant, high-side pressure issues (blockage or overcharge), or a failed pressure switch. We measure both high-side and low-side pressures to pinpoint the cause.

The system is on, the fan is running, but you’re getting tepid air instead of hot or cold. Low refrigerant is the most common cause, followed by restricted airflow or a clogged filter. We’ll check refrigerant pressures, clean the filter and outdoor coil, test airflow, and determine if a recharge is needed.

Hissing (normal during defrost cycle), but also grinding, squealing, or banging. These sounds mean the compressor bearing is wearing, the reversing valve solenoid is chattering, or the fan blade is bent. Don’t ignore these; running a worn compressor makes failure inevitable. We’ll listen and advise whether repair is safe or if replacement is required.

Your thermostat shows “auxiliary heat” or “backup heat” running in winter even when it’s 40°F outside (not freezing). This means the heat pump isn’t providing enough heating on its own. Causes: low refrigerant, failed reversing valve, or a blockage in the heating-side refrigerant line. We’ll diagnose and fix the underlying issue so your primary heat pump works efficiently in heating mode.

We ask you: When did the problem start? Is it a heating issue or cooling? Does the thermostat switch modes, or is it stuck? We move the thermostat through heating, cooling, and off modes while listening and watching the outdoor unit. If the system won’t switch, the reversing valve is likely stuck. If it switches but heating or cooling is weak, we’re looking at a different problem. This initial check tells us a lot without any tools.

We connect a manifold gauge set to the service ports and measure high-side and low-side pressures in cooling mode and heating mode. Pressure readings tell us if the refrigerant charge is correct, if there’s a leak, or if there’s a blockage. Low pressure in both modes suggests a leak; low pressure in only one mode suggests a reversing valve problem (it’s not fully directing refrigerant). High pressure in heating mode but normal in cooling suggests a heating-side blockage.

If pressures suggest a reversing valve issue, we test the solenoid (the electromagnet that moves the valve). We measure voltage and continuity at the solenoid coil. A dead solenoid won’t move the valve. We also listen for the solenoid “click” when power is applied—if there’s no click, the valve isn’t moving. We determine if the solenoid can be replaced without removing the valve, or if the entire valve assembly needs replacement.

If you’re reporting a heating problem in winter, we test the defrost cycle. We manually trigger the cycle or let it run automatically, then confirm: The system reverses to “cooling mode” (hot gas defrosts the outdoor coil), the outdoor fan shuts off (allowing the coil to warm up), after 5–10 minutes, the system reverses back to heating mode, and the thermostat shows normal heating again. If the defrost cycle is broken, the outdoor coil stays frozen and heating output plummets.

We check airflow at supply and return vents with a temperature tester. Weak heating or cooling often comes from a clogged filter, duct blockage, or failed blower motor. We inspect visible ductwork in the attic for obvious disconnections. We test blower motor continuity and thermostat wiring. A lot of heat pump “repairs” are just filter changes or loose duct connections—we catch these before you leave.

Based on pressures, valve tests, and airflow checks, we tell you exactly what’s wrong: “The reversing valve solenoid has failed. We can replace the solenoid for $XXX, and you’ll be able to switch between heating and cooling again.” Or: “You have a slow refrigerant leak in the heating-side line. We recommend replacing the lineset and recharging.” No surprises.

Once approved, we perform the repair: replace the solenoid, recharge refrigerant, clean the outdoor coil, replace a filter, or repair the defrost thermostat. After repair, we run both heating mode and cooling mode for 15–20 minutes each and confirm pressures, airflow, and thermostat switching are all normal. We test the defrost cycle if it’s heating season. We don’t call it fixed until both modes work properly.